My fishing past started almost 20 years ago. I became serious about it when I was 15 years old. When I got my driver's license, I bought a trailer to tow my boat, and I spent the next ten years fishing close to 200+ days a year. I learned so much just by being out on the water. My early days saw me as a power fisherman, slinging big baits on heavy lines. I did pretty well. I caught a ton of fish, and I caught big fish.
As unlikely as it seems, I learned that I could attract more bites if I scaled down a little and ultimately caught more bass. At the time, I did not expect to increase the amount of big fish I was catching significantly. I figured smaller baits wouldn't attract larger bass, but I noticed that I started catching bigger fish. This article is geared to help you apply some of the tricks I've learned over the years to use. I feel it may help you get into the zone regarding catching more and bigger bass. At the very least, it will prepare you for such encounters. I do not plan on this being a light tackle lecture. You all know how fond of it I am and how successful with it I've been.
Let's discuss what a big fish is. To me, a big Long Island largemouth is 4.5 pounds and up. Here in New York, it is a real possibility that you can go out on many waters and catch a 6-pound fish. That is a massive fish for New York.
Some places hold 7's, 8's, and 9's as well. In the past 15 years or so, I've taken over 30 fish within this size range. A bass this size is a true gem, a trophy. They get this way by being smart. They are masters of their environment. They do not come easy and will take advantage of any miscue or error. They do not come along often, so you must be prepared for them. You have to work for these fish as I don't remember catching them by accident.
Bass fishing can be about as complicated or as simple as you choose to make it. I've learned much in my many years of trial and error. I've learned to become more organized and more astute in my trade. I think that gives me a significant advantage. I've also learned to travel light and carry a big stick.
Top Secret Information begins here:
For many years, I've targeted big fish exclusively. To do this, you must accept several things. First, you must put in your time scouting these fish out. They do not just appear anywhere. Next, you must forget about catching smaller fish altogether. You are targeting a 5-pound largemouth. If you fish for a smaller fish, you may not ever get that big fish to bite. It is not as easy to use a bigger bait as some guys swear to. That might be true at times, but I've taken hundreds, several hundred 5-pound-plus largemouths on 1/16-ounce jigs. You must realize that there are times when you might remain (big bass) fishless for days, even weeks at a time. When you realize this and commit to it, you will then begin to tip the scales in your favor. You cheat yourself if you put in some time and then employ little fish tactics.
1-Your tackle
Make sure you use quality rods and reels. I can say this till I'm blue in the face, but there will always be some guy who goes out there under-matched and breaks off on a 2-pound bass but swears it was a 6 or 7. My choices have become so narrow these days it is almost as if I am a spokesman for the companies whose products I opt to use.
Reels- Shimano Stradic 2500FH series That's it. I'll pick up a 1000FH or 2500MGf at times as well. Shimano costs more, but I think it is the most reliable reel out there. To me, Diawa is too slow. I use Scorpion, and Metanium Shimano bait cast reels exclusively. These are improved Japanese versions of the Curado and Chronarch, respectively.
Rods- My choice for the past 15 years is from Bass Pro Shops. I prefer the Extreme series and Johnny Morris rods. The Bionic Blades are also excellent. In my opinion, there is nothing on the market that is a better value. I don't see spending hundreds of dollars more for a G-Loomis. I have a Yamamoto Loomis rod in 7ft medium action flipping that I'm not convinced is better than my Johnny Morris in the same size and action.
2- Terminal Tackle
This is your direct link to fish. You can land a fish on a lesser rod and reel than I specified, but you seriously increase your odds if you concentrate on serious terminal tackle.
Line- I used Bagley's Super Silver thread in the Red/Blue box in the early days. I can't find it anymore. Lately, I have had great success with Yo-Zuri 8 lb Hybrid line. I can horse a fish if I need to. I spent an entire tournament season using 6 lb without a break-off. Spinning reels dictate smaller pound tests as this stuff has some memory. 8 lb is about as heavy as I like on spinning tackle. For my baitcasting gear, I am torn between P-line and Hybrid. I lost two big fish on Yo-Zuri 12 lb on my jig rod this past season. I can't explain why. I am hoping a switch to P-line rectifies the situation. I look for a line with the highest possible tensile strength and good abrasion resistance. I do not use braid for my big bass hunting. It seems unnatural to me in color. I go with the clear or green line.
Hooks- I've been thrilled with the hooks I've been using from Hookerz Terminal. They are essentially Gamakatsu hooks at a much lower price, and the points do not roll over. I also like Gamakatsu. This hook is unique because it is made with the finest grade carbon steel and is thinner in diameter than most others. These are better than Owner hooks, which are no slouches and a brand I relied on longer than any other for big fish. I do most of my fishing with EWG-style (Extra Wide Gap) hooks for soft plastics. I can rig a tube, worm, or stickbait perfectly every time. I tie all of this together with a Palomar knot. It is the only knot I use, ever!
Consider using some of the new red hooks from Daiichi. The bleeding bait series is an innovation in the otherwise stagnant hook market and is said to increase strike due to its resemblance to blood. I'm not convinced that this is true, but I do not notice any decrease in strikes by employing them.
3-Approach
I feel that you must be stealthy if you want to catch these big bass consistently. If you alert them to an unnatural presence, they will spook. Concentrate on being quiet as far as unnecessary noise inside your boat is concerned. Don't bang or drop things if you can help it. If you wade, be careful when you walk. If you are kicking up silt, make sure you are not fishing in the flow direction. That way, your dust will not signal your location to the fish. It also is better not to muddy up your target area. I was a big-time wade fisherman in the early days, and I learned how to make myself less conspicuous to the fish, almost so it is second nature. I still wade from time to time. I've naturally absolved myself of all of my bad habits and for me, being quiet and cautious is natural.
Wear neutral colors such as tan, beige, light blue, gray, or khaki when out on the water. Avoid red, dark colors, yellow, bright white, or orange. I feel that bass can see you above the water and usually long before you see them. Natural colors may not put fear into them about your presence. A bright color may spook them. I always fish with the sun on my face. This way, I do not cast a shadow towards the fish I target. Many anglers will do it the other way by justifying that the sun would be in the fish' eyes and they wouldn't be able to see you. I don't buy that for a second.
4-Choose your waters carefully
I grew up fishing massive waters. Since I have the choice, I am a petite water guy here on Long Island. I've taken big fish from ponds no bigger than an acre in size. I prefer to fish in small ponds for several reasons. First and foremost, I don't like being bothered when fishing. If I catch a big fish, I don't want anyone seeing it, and I certainly don't want anyone coming over to me and asking me how I caught it. So less pressure is essential for the fish and my sanity.
Smaller ponds are easier to break down when you are in a quest for a large fish. First, you must analyze the forage base, structure, temperature, find the migration routes, and hope that the big fish are present in the particular body of water.
Some ponds are just better big fish factories. I've had days on small ponds barren of desirable big bass characteristics, only to pull in 10 fish weighing 55 pounds. I've also been in places that should have been can't miss but produced nothing. Take a look at where most big largemouths are coming from. Those 20-pounders for California are usually from waters no more than 1000 acres. Most are under 600 acres. Big fish stay in relatively the exact locations daily. I know I've caught the same fish over and over again. They are territorial and do not move all that much.
In picking out an ideal pond, consider these things:
Forage base
"Big bass do not like to spend too much energy to grab food." Knowing this, I concentrate on looking for areas within a body of water that are vital forage holding areas. Keeping this in mind and taking it a step further by looking for specific pieces of cover within these areas that will hold a big fish is optimum.
I have always believed that you can catch the most bass by presenting them with something that looks natural and like something they eat regularly. I do not want to discuss whether or not a bass knows what he is eating. It is irrelevant here. I stick with earth-toned bait colors. Blacks, Browns, Greens are what I throw almost exclusively. You rarely will catch me out there with something pink on the end of my line.
On Long Island, we have shiners, perch, bluegills, mosquito fish, and killies, among other baitfish. Terrestrial creatures also make up a smaller percentage of a bass' diet.
I attempt to have the bait on the end of my line mimic something real and tasty-looking. On Long Island, baitfish are the primary source of forage for our native largemouth bass. Very few places have craws, but they are also an option, and craw-type baits will work on waters that do not support populations of these bottom dwellers.
My bait choices have been scaled down to imitate natural creatures specifically. Knowing that most of these morsels are relatively slow-moving makes me realize that slow, deliberate retrieves are the best.
Cover/structure
What type of cover is prominent? Is there an ideal mix of vegetation? Varying bottom contour? Channels and off-shore structure?
I look for a mix of aquatic growth. Pads are nice, Cabomba is good, Elodea.....ok. But find an area where you have many different weeds together, and you open yourself up to better odds of catching bigger fish. 'Tis true. These different vegetation types create junctions or edges that fish gravitate to. Often you simply need to look for something different. I spy a pad field but fish it with no luck. As I am about to motor off, I make the last cast and pick up a 4-pounder. Why was that fish in the place I caught it? What was different? I'm sure a quick analysis will reveal the answer, and often it is a subtle change in vegetation.
I prefer to look for bigger fish in areas with a hard bottom. I feel that the hard bottom holds heat better than mud. Bass use hard bottoms to spawn on. After they are done, they often follow a slope to deeper water and remain on the first piece of cover they find in the area. This is essential information.
I love to fish wood, bushes, trees, and these are all likely spots to catch fish, but they are also spots that get pounded by the one-dimensional bank beaters. One of the things I've done lately, especially in tournaments, is to back off and fish open water. I let the rest of the guys have the shallows and target the fish that nobody else does. It almost always pays off too. If you can find an excellent offshore spot, it will usually hold fish most of the year.
I like to fish in lakes or rivers with some, no matter how small, current. This creates natural ambush points that are subtle and often overlooked—everyone on Long Island fishes. One particular body of water is a river. Most guys forget that fact and don't adapt to it. There is an advantage in applying river tactics. Even the slightest current will cause your sinking baits to be carried by the flow. A simple adjustment may put you in the strike zone longer than casting directly on top of your target.
Migration Routes
I've used this term before, and I'm sure more than a few guys have asked themselves, "what the hell is he talking about?" This has nothing to do with the season or heading south for the Winter. Bass use migration routes every day.
A migration route is simply how a bass or bass plural gets from shallow to deep water and back. Bass are creatures of habit. They take the same routes into and out of the shallows unless they are swimming for their lives and need to high-tail it out of an area in a hurry.
I stumbled upon this many years ago while fishing a crystal clear pit where my position was elevated to the point where I could follow a pod of really nice-sized fish working their way in and out of the shallows to feed. I noticed that they would enter and exit at the same points. They would never alternate to another area. I noticed this on different days, so I concluded that they use the underwater seascape just like a highway. There must be road signs to indicate the best way to the shallows or the best exit.
Ideally, you want to find an area with quick deep water access from the shallows. This is the best hypothetical migration route for a bass. It can get in the shallows undetected and quickly escape to the deepwater sanctuary if it has to. The structure in the depths further highlights these spots. Once a bass gets to deeper water, it will likely head for the first piece of structure it can find. I've located some of this sanctuary and picked it apart for some outstanding results.
Ambush points
Considering what I already stated about bigger bass not wanting to expend massive amounts of energy to capture prey, ambush points are an obvious consideration. I look for ambush points off the beaten path, which the other anglers overlook. You can open up a whole new world if you simply back off the bank and open your eyes. I've seen great ambush points in the middle of the current that is only a tiny current break. I mean watching a couple of big fish just hanging onto a small clump of grass that affords them slack water to wait until something washes by them so they can pounce. These ambush points can be as subtle as a small hole or depression or as big as a stump row or boulder. The key is that most anglers don't know they even exist.
5-Fishing like you mean it
I've seen guys go through the motions. Everyone thinks they are on top of their game. In truth, most of us are not. I can frequently get myself into the zone, but there are times when I feel I'm useless. Put the effort in and make a plan, do your homework, research a pond, so you are not fishing blind. Make a journal that outlines patterns, conditions, etc. I have an extensive set of logbooks that dates back about 15+ years. It chronicles many of Long Island's best waters during every period of the year. This system has helped me narrow my search when picking out a body of water to fish and even a pattern to use. It pretty much has not changed despite the years. The bottom line is you must prepare yourself for big fish long before you catch them.
Target where they live
Learn how to get your baits in the right locations. If you are worried about losing a few baits, you need to get into the right frame of mind. Big bass get that way because they are masters at finding heavy cover where you can't and won't cast to them effectively. I learned that I could consistently catch bass in places that most other guys avoided because they were too threatening. I also learned that many of those spots held big fish that didn't get much pressure. I accomplish this delivery by skip-casting baits along the surface. With my experience, I can thread a needle at 35 feet, although most of this is much shorter. Don't simply make a few casts to a target and leave. Move your boat and cast to the same target from a different angle. Bass do not always face you. They could be in any direction. Hitting them from all sides increases your chances of having them strike.
Stick with what you know
Don't throw baits you don't know how to use. To catch big fish, you must have 100% confidence in your tactics and tackle. It is simple. I wouldn't step into a boxing ring if I weren't a boxer. I wouldn't fly a plane if I weren't a pilot. Why would I attempt to use a tool in crunch time if I had no experience? I'm not saying you don't learn. When your purpose for being on the water is to target big bass, you don't want to be trying something you have no confidence in. You will be far less effective that way.
For God's sake, learn to set the hook.
The big problem is that so many anglers have no idea how to set the hook. Strike decisively! Set the hook like you mean it. I'm not a big guy, but everyone in my boat knows it when I set the hook. Your quarry has a thick boney jaw that you must penetrate to form a successful hold. If you give that fish a chance to get away because of a weak hookset, he will beat you every time. I often set up on a fish twice during the fight. This gives me the confidence I have that fish hooked solidly. If you are not sure you have a bite, swing on it. Hook sets are free. Many times you can't feel the fish bite. You might see your line twitch or look like it is moving off. Something I do to detect strikes to what I call "weighing the line." Here, you must learn what your bait feels like as you retrieve it. Anything more or less is likely a bass. Know the weight of your bait. This is a great way to learn how to fish a jig.
Check your gear
Throughout the day, check your line for nicks and abrasions. Retie often. Make sure your hook points are in good shape. Make sure your drag is set to allow line slippage and solid resistance to set the hook. You need to be prepared for a hit because you never know when it is coming. Get lax, and you'll lose out. I'll tell you that it is impossible to remain 100% focused, but you should strive for it. Once you develop confidence in your style, you will develop the patience to help you get by those fishless hours.
Setting up your spots
One of the things I've done in the past was going out with a saw and string. Sometimes I might cut a limb or two to get better penetration for my casts. I am careful not to make it obvious because I do not want others targeting these spots. I'm also not talking about cutting trees down. It is simple pruning. This is great for clearing an area of underwater snags in anticipation you will be fighting a fish in that location. I've also done some fantastic work with string. I've tied back branches and thickets with my skip casts to get undercover. I've made string bridges where I can cast over the string and yo-yo my bait in one spot, hoping to be engulfed by a big fish. The weight of the fish, once hooked, will pull the bridge down.
This is an excellent but time-consuming way to put the odds in your favor. This is where scouting comes into play. Go out on the water with a hunting mentality. You are hunting for big fish. Spend some time thinking about where a big fish would live. During those scouting exploits is the best time to set up your spots. You are, in essence, preparing a spot to produce big fish. When it works, it is a rush. It is almost invisible to those who are not privy to the locations where I've done it. I've fished these areas in tournaments without my partner knowing they were there. I've also been known to allegedly plant cover in some places to sweeten up locations where I've previously caught big fish. Nothing big, and usually stuff I find on the shoreline. These are all little things that can help you catch bigger bass.
6- Big Baits vs. Small Baits
Now I know the rationale here is that big baits equal big fish, which is true. Throwing larger baits may eliminate some of the smaller strikes but not all of them. I have used smaller baits that I put in the right places to catch more big fish than I have on larger baits. I throw certain baits when targeting big fish and certain ones I avoid. I feel that a jig-n-pig is the most consistent big fish bait. It amazes me that most anglers don't fish or don't understand the bait. I like giant plastic worms. A 12-inch model is great for targeting big fish. Buzzbaits seem to take a good share of big bass, as do topwater. However, I rely on the far less than other baits.
I avoid spinnerbaits and crankbaits when hunting big fish. I feel that most times......night buzzbait fishing being an exception, that bass are looking for a slow presentation, a presentation where they do not have to expend too much energy. A tube, jig, or soft plastic is ideal for this theory. I'm not saying that crankbaits and spinnerbaits will not catch a few big fish. They certainly can, but they would not be my optimum options.
Consider my four biggest bass ever:
13.9 pounds: 4-inch Slider worm, 6 lb test
9.14 pounds: 4-inch Slider worm, 6 lb test
9.3 pounds: 1/16-ounce jig, 6 lb test
9.3 pounds: 1/16-ounce jig, 6 lb test
Those were tiny baits that most people wouldn't employ when looking for big bass. I've made a good living catching larger bass on smaller baits. Much of this is due to my fondness for jigs which I already stated might be the best option for catching big fish. The difference here is that I put these smaller baits into places where big fish live without the fear of losing them. Once you get over the hurdle that you might not get your bait back and it doesn't bother you, you are one step ahead of the game. By casting into areas that other anglers avoid, I increase my chances of putting my baits in front of a big unpressured fish. I designed my Micro Munch Jig specifically for this reason. Although I've had guys tell me that there is no way I can catch big fish on these small baits, they fail to realize that the bait alone is not the reason these fish fall victim to my hands. It is all in how I use that bait, where I put it. I'll be the first to tell you that you should gain some light-line experience if you plan on taking my advice. You do not want the first time you tangle with a 6-pound bass to be in the middle of a bush, ten feet into the trees where you can't see your line. Yes, you will lose some fish, but you will also gain experience that will help you hone your skills.
Must-have baits that I carry in my tackle box specifically for big fish:
Jig-n-pigs from 1/16-ounce up to 1/2-ounce. I prefer black/blue/purple and black
4-inch and 5-inch Salty Stinker SD baits
4-inch tubes, black, red flake, and black grape
Sammy 85 Spit'N Image Jr.
6-inch Gambler Bacon Rind, black/blue
4- and 6-inch lizards, black/red, black, grape
4.5-inch pearl Fluke-type jerkbaits
4-inch grubs, black, watermelon
5-inch Rapala Minnow floater
All of these baits have good considerable bass potential. Some are subtle, and some are not. One trick I use when big bass fishing is to keep a follow-up rod rigged with either a SS, single pour Salty Stinker, or a Fluke bait. I chuck these out when a fish misses my offering or if I need a little more stealth. It has worked for me too many times to discount its success.
7-Zen Master Bassing
Almost all of the things I spoke of are simple adjustments you can make to perform more efficiently. Now let's go a little deeper to the mental side of things. There is no doubt that some people can just get in the "Zone" and consistently perform at a higher level. I often feel that I have this ability. This Zone is a state of being where you are at the top of your game. I've done some things to adjust and tweak my fishing to bring to a higher plain regularly.
Mental Preparation
Some people may disagree, but I believe that mental preparation can play a significant factor in success. There are two aspects of mental preparation that are key for me. Focus and confidence are essential for my implementation in my fishing system.
FOCUS - It is essential to tune in with your surroundings while fishing. I speak not only of the bait you are cranking in but of the total outdoor experience. Forgive me if I get too "deep." I try to concentrate on everything when I'm fishing. Sounds, sights, and smells....everything. I look for anything that may give me a clue where the bass may be. I focus on swirls of water, baitfish movement, birds taking off and landing, surface commotion, or anything out of the ordinary.
Often, fish give their locations away with movement. Not everyone can detect this. I was out with my wife last season, and we were working a stretch of cattails—no wind on this day. I saw the tails move ever so slightly and directed her to cast to the location. The result was her first 4-pound bass. I impressed her with that call, and she believes that because I am a Pisces, I can communicate with the bass or at least be in tune with them.
The more I concentrate on my surroundings, the easier it is to detect strikes. I approach every fishing situation with a game plan and at least one backup. I stick to my guns and don't get rattled if my pattern isn't working. Many times patience is the name of the game. I use my journal to eliminate many patterns and point myself in the right direction. It is hard to know when to abandon a "dry" pattern, but an experienced angler will just know when to change. Do not panic if your plan isn't working. If you are not catching fish, don't switch to a panic run and gun....it will most likely result in a day of casting practice. Use logic to tell you where the fish should be. Model your fishing on seasonal conditions, and you should be able to eke out a few fish.
Focus is one of the most important non-physical attributes I can mention. It is of the highest importance to remain in a conservative state. This helps you become in tune with your surroundings. You tend to see, hear and smell things that you might typically miss out on the water. Clues to the locations of fish, bait, and other telltale signs that could point you in the direction of big bass. I take everything in while I'm out on the water. I do not let it engulf me to the point that I second guess myself. I do what is natural and often make decisions without backing them up with scientific reasoning. It works for me.
I fish to relax as much as for enjoyment. I have experienced life in a tournament club and have experienced an angler's success on top of his game. I do not prefer tournament fishing over my hunting. I have decided to hunt and leave my tournament days behind me. I mentally prepared myself for tournaments to relax and get in a positive frame of mind. This helped me to take on the clock. I simply pictured every event as just another day on the water.....only I was holding on to my biggest bass for a little while. Once I realized I was merely a taxi service for bass, my fishing could be done on a higher level.
CONFIDENCE - Confidence is paramount to success. It is easier to fish a pattern or bait you have confidence in. You will fish it more thoroughly and methodically than trying something new if you are familiar with a technique. There are certain baits that I thrive at throwing. I utilize them to my advantage. There are a few that I don't rely on because I'm not as seasoned with them. I am a confident angler. I am confident in my ability. Not to the point where I am an arrogant SOB, but to the point where I know I should be catching bass in a specific situation. Rely on your strengths. If you are hunting big bass, be prepared with a game plan. This prevents blind fishing and will relax your nerves. The organization is the key to success.
Although I briefly touched on this, it is essential to have confidence in what you are doing or employing methods. You will be more effective if you believe in yourself and what you do. It will make you more aware out on the water. With that awareness, you will become a better angler. If you believe you are doing something to the best of your ability, it usually pays off on the water. Employ tactics that you are practiced in.
I have tremendous confidence in baits that have salt and scent. I feel that scent is not the attractor company's claim it is. I feel that once the bass has a scented bait in its mouth, it holds on longer because of the taste. Salted bait is also excellent as far as bait retention goes. When a bass crunches down on a salted bait, I feel that it tastes something natural...maybe the salty taste of blood. That forces the bass to hold on longer.
Even if I am wrong, these ingredients give me confidence and help me perform at a higher level. To me, that is paramount.
8-Boat Preparation
The most important thing I need to stress is preparation. Organize your boat so that you can chase a big bass around it if necessary. Remember your pliers, scale, net, camera, and video equipment. I recently built a mount on my boat for a video camera as I plan to do a ton of big bass fishing this season and want to document it. Don't be caught out there with the fish of a lifetime without a scale or camera to document it with.
Ensure you have all of the necessary tools while out on the water. You may need to quickly repair a trolling motor or do a little dentist work. I have a holster on my boat seat that holds my tools and keeps them within arms' reach. I recommend the Rapala tools and the De Barb. This can go a long way in saving a deeply hooked fish. Make sure you use this advice for good and not evil. Release all of the big fish you catch. If you want a mount, consider a fiberglass model. They look just as good and last longer.
9- The Numbers add up
If you make a dedicated effort to change your style of bass fishing to target bigger bass specifically, you will notice your numbers will increase. That is obvious but true. I spent about 200 days a year on the water for ten years. I caught my share of big fish. I caught a lot of them. But I didn't concentrate on big fish until the early to mid-'90s. Here, I eliminated many of my small fish practices and started hunting. Each trip was a lesson for that day and for me to store in my memory. You must learn everything about your quarry. This can be done in part by reading, but the water experience is the best way to do it.
As I learned to target bigger fish specifically, my days on the water per year decreased due to my employment responsibilities. However, I found that I was catching more big fish than ever. These minor adjustments I had to make in the past were now part of what I did naturally.
I had combined what I learned in 10 years of fishing with my journal work and could calculate where the best opportunities were for me to succeed. I had to do it this way because my time was at a premium. I needed the best bang for my buck at the least expense of time.
In an article I wrote years ago, I stated that I had taken over 1000 bass exceeding 5 pounds. I 100% stand by that statement. Some guys just can't fathom that because they may not have captured a single 5-pound bass in their lifetime. But, considering that there is more to this than simply going out and casting as many of the guys do, it is possible if you put the effort in to do it right. Most guys would not want to sacrifice their time on the water where they could be catching any size fish, let alone not catching big bass. I do not blame them, but I'm glad I decided to take that route.
The truth is that these larger fish do exist in almost all waters to some degree. I get a kick out of people who ask if I think a big bass lives in a specific body of water. It is usually likely, provided there are requirements met to support those big fish. Some waters have an abundance, and some only a handful. But they are out there. It is possible to take more than one on a trip; consider the trip I spoke of earlier, ten bass weighing 55 pounds. That is Florida-like here on Long Island. These places do exist. You just have to put in a serious effort to be rewarded. My absolute best day on Long Island consisted of a five-bass limit of 32-pounds 4-ounces. That is ungodly, and it was all on topwater. Within the past two years, my big fish hunting all but stopped due to my tournament fishing. I learned that targeting big fish specifically during a tournament was not conducive to success. You are fishing for a bite that may not even come, so get a limit and attempt to upgrade rather than the chance of that occurring. Although I took some big tournament fish, they just happened to be where I was throwing, looking for a limit.
To consistently catch big bass, an angler has to put in the time and effort to be rewarded with success. Luck plays no part in consistency. An angler skilled in this "hunting" knows where to go, when, and what to use. The process is not merely casting and hoping to hook up. It is a science to study the habits of your quarry and try to make your quarry make a mistake. It does not always work, but it gives that angler the best possible angle in succeeding. I am happy to have made certain decisions in my life that led me to this philosophy. I am a better and more effective, and more experienced angler for doing so.
